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Service first, quality always. We have been going here almost since it opened. The service has always been good. The hot sauce is sometimes a little too hot but it is the best…. This store is very crowded. Narrow aisles; free-standing displays all over the place. Unhelpful baggers. Although a few have transitioned from female to male, most of her patients are men becoming women.

Many do not, despite the miniskirts and eyeliner. But what might shout strange, threatening or wrong in similar towns barely registers in Trinidad. Once you befriend them, you will have a friend for life. Zach Duran, 24, was born in Trinidad but grew up in Cimmaron, a wisp of a town in western Kansas. With the breakfast rush over at Hot Spot at the Savoy, restaurant owner Diana Velarde says most longtime residents are tied, however indirectly, to the sex-change piece of the Trinidad puzzle.

He gave us our penicillin shots and sent us on our way. When we lost him, it was like losing a family member. Biber died in , but his legacy survives. Bowers now is performing more surgeries a year than Biber ever did.

Her patients routinely stop in at the Savoy. And they stay here. Some of them come in here and they are absolutely gorgeous. Before she started taking hormones and growing her hair, she was a good-looking man, too. Bowers keeps a photo album of her transition in her Trinidad house — mustached gent in a suit; full-bearded guy relaxing on a couch; wavy-haired character clowning with the spouse; woman in a restaurant.

At home, in a big, orderly brick spread above town, Bowers might find the time to sit down and talk about the topics that animate her, most of which revolve around her surgeries and the idea of compassion. Bowers has spent the past four years obsessing over the surgical procedure she inherited from Biber. When she talks about the discrimination transgenders face, she becomes agitated, gesticulating and pounding tables or chair arms with her fists.

The opposite view is unconditional love and acceptance. Just a decade ago, most people who went through gender-reassignment surgery did it all alone: Their families abandoned them, their bosses fired them, they arrived in Trinidad, or somewhere else, with a suitcase and nothing more.